New York

Just opened

Greenpoint, New York Opened Sept. 24

148 Noble Street

French-Italian, with a New Orleans accent · $$
Chef Gabriel Borges, formerly of Chez Ma Tante, with Eric Carney of Five Leaves

A New Orleans-born Greenpoint local takes over the old Noble wine bar and cooks what he likes: pommes paillasson, Louisiana crab claws in Cajun butter, grilled pork. The house calls itself “classic, energetic, focused and unruly,” which sounds like a good Thursday.

148 Noble St., Brooklyn

Courtesy of 148 Noble Street

West Village, New York Opened in September

HUMM

Seasonal American · $$$
Chef Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park

Daniel Humm puts his own name on a door for the first time, and it’s an à la carte neighborhood place. Market cooking and produce from Magic Farms, in a Pierre Yovanovitch room hung with Francesco Clemente and Rashid Johnson.

435 Hudson St.

Chinatown, New York Opened in September

Cavalier

Mediterranean, with Turkish accents
Chef Mason Lindahl, formerly of Diner and Monkey Bar, with Yasmin Kaytmaz and Tate Jackson

A 48-seat room on Kimlau Square where a Diner alum cooks through his partner’s Turkish upbringing: baked lavash with tomato butter, cockles with sujuk and borlotti beans, sumac chicken, sour cherry pavlova. Black leather booths and a silver-leaf ceiling keep it from feeling like anyone’s grandmother’s house.

1 E. Broadway

West Village, New York Opened Sept. 16

El Camarón Peludo

Mexican seafood and natural wine · $$
From the team behind Taqueria Ramirez and Carnitas Ramirez

The Taqueria Ramirez people turn to the sea on Cornelia Street: michelada oysters, a sardine taco fried in lard with chile de árbol, camarones zarandeados and crisp natural wine, all in a room with a dozen bar stools. It’s mostly walk-in, which suits a place built for long afternoons that turn into evenings.

20 Cornelia St.

Courtesy of El Camarón Peludo

West Village, New York Opened Sept. 15

Galo

Portuguese · $$$
Chef Nuno Sousa, from the team behind Leitão

The Leitão team’s second place is a Portuguese wine cellar of a room, where the centerpiece is a whole stuffed rooster (galo, hence the name). Start with the razor clams, pick a bottle from the long Portuguese list and stay a while.

142 W. 10th St.

Courtesy of Galo

Cobble Hill, New York Opened Sept. 10

Sam’s Restaurant

Italian American · $$
Georgia Fulton, 12 years at the Long Island Bar, taking over from Lou Migliaccio

The red-sauce room on Court Street, open since 1930, has a new keeper in Georgia Fulton, who changed as little as she could: red vinyl booths, checkered cloths, rigatoni alla vodka, baked clams and a cheese pie for $27.

238 Court St., Brooklyn

Courtesy of Sam’s Restaurant

Upper East Side, New York Opened Sept. 9

Creola

Tasting menu, American South and African diaspora · $$$$
Chef Lana Lagomarsini, formerly of Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Momofuku Ko and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, in her first restaurant

A 12-seat supper club named for Lana Lagomarsini’s grandmother, with a five-course menu that changes with the seasons: collard green potlikker consommé with trout, elk with blackberry jerk and plantain, goose egg pavlova. Two seatings a night, Wednesday to Saturday, and you’ll want to be at one of them.

1261 Park Ave.

Courtesy of Creola

Harlem, New York Opened Sept. 6

Kinne

Senegalese steakhouse
The family behind Africa Kine, a Harlem Senegalese institution for more than 30 years

Africa Kine, which has fed Harlem thiebou djen for three decades, opens a dressier second home back on 116th Street, where it started. Think steak and mac and cheese in cast iron, tufted banquettes and low lights, Tuesday to Sunday from 5 p.m.

205 W. 116th St.

Greenpoint, New York Opened Sept. 4

Kirbee’s

Texas barbecue · $$
Pitmasters Jonny White of Goldee’s and Chuck Charnichart of Barbs B Q

Two Texas pitmasters, one from Goldee’s and one from Barbs B Q, pooled their brisket for a small counter in Greenpoint that serves Friday to Sunday until it runs out. There’s a beef rib the size of a forearm, with green spaghetti on the side.

55 McGuinness Blvd. S., Brooklyn

West Village, New York Opened Sept. 2

Hommali

Modern Thai · $$
Chef Chattchakorn “Benz” Khajornchaisan, with Kritayanee “Air” Promsarin and Pichalak “Picha” Srigungvarl, who met at Eleven Madison Park

Named for Thailand’s favorite jasmine rice, Hommali is three Bangkok natives cooking the food they missed, with house ferments and heirloom rice. Downstairs feels like a moody library; upstairs has a skylight big enough to tan under.

28 Seventh Ave. South

Photo: Poupay Jutharat

Bed-Stuy, New York Opened Sept. 2

Peral

Mexico City taqueria and café
The teams behind Olmo next door and Cicatriz in Mexico City

Olmo and Mexico City’s Cicatriz opened a café and taqueria next door to Olmo: potato, egg and cheese burritos and prickly pear iced coffee in the morning, then tacos like rib eye with jalapeño escabeche or mushroom deshebrada with pepitas from 5 p.m.

105 Saratoga Ave., Brooklyn

Courtesy of Peral

Chelsea, New York Opened July 2

MŪJE

Pan-Asian tasting menu · $$$$
Chef Jungsik Yim of three-Michelin-star Jungsik, with executive chef Daeik Kim

Jungsik Yim steps outside Korean food for an eight-course, $150 menu that roams all of Asia: a chicken wing stuffed with spiced pork and dusted in “Prinkle” seasoning, warm kongguksu, and a coconut and coffee dessert shaped like Singapore’s Merlion. The bar serves à la carte if you’re not ready to commit to eight.

151 W. 30th St.

Courtesy of MŪJE

Opening soon

Lower East Side, New York Opens Oct. 2

iara

Brazilian, by way of the Amazon · $$
Chef Vitor Mendes, formerly of Theodora and Brooklyn Fare

Vitor Mendes spent a month in the Amazon and came back with jambu, tucupi and a plan: pão de queijo, snapper moqueca, and picanha with tapioca fries and açaí ketchup. Comfort food, with a few ingredients you may be meeting for the first time.

205 Allen St.

Courtesy of iara

Williamsburg, New York Opens Oct. 6

Booth’s Extra Fine

Old-school American steakhouse · $$$
Chef Nick Pfannerstill, formerly of Café Boulud and Dovetail, from the team behind Nobody Told Me

Named for the chef’s grandfather, a Milwaukee car salesman, Booth’s is a supper-club steakhouse with broiled chops, chilled seafood towers and homemade butter rolls. The desserts are nostalgic and the martinis come very cold.

62 S. Second St., Brooklyn

Long Island City, New York Opens in early October

Symone

Café · $
DeVonn Francis of Yardy World, in his first restaurant

DeVonn Francis, known for his Yardy World dinners, opens his first restaurant inside MoMA PS1: curry chicken salad sandwiches, patties, cod and rice porridge, and soft serve for after the galleries (or instead of them).

MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave., Queens

DeVonn Francis at MoMA PS1. Photo by John Kim, courtesy MoMA PS1

Williamsburg, New York Opens in November

Pari

Seasonal French · $$$
Max Aronson and chef Harrison Geller, who met at Carbone

Two Carbone alums are opening a French restaurant with a quail and foie gras torte and whole turbot in banana leaf on the menu. The cocktails are odd in a good way: the martini comes with crawfish spice.

138 N. Eighth St., Brooklyn